climbing in the ‘shuo

After a 2 week break (in GeTu for the Petzl Roctrip – post to come) we’ve come back to Yangshuo (China) to get our redpoint on for the next few weeks. Actually it’s really just me, Steve, since Angie has been suffering from a debilitating neck issue that has plagued her periodically throughout our travels. Today she tried Chinese acupuncture and, if the pain is anything to go by, the treatment is likely to be very effective! Apparently it’s just as painful as it sounds.

Mic trying Karate a Muerte! at Lei Pi Shan


It’s a pity, since I’m feeling more psyched than ever and there’s plenty for both of us to climb here. Luckily she seems content buried in her books and her highly-treasured iPad and there are plenty of motivated climbers in town for me to pair up with.

So the draws are up and the psych is high! My project de jour is Lightening (pictured below), the first 8b+ in China (now 8B). Perhaps my favorite line so far, it climbs a 35 meter 10 degree overhanging wall with perfect sequences on incut edges, pockets and tufas. No single move is particularly difficult but the top 15 meters require a good dose of endurance.

Me on the lower crux of Lightening at Lei Pi Shan


There are several other lines of similar difficulty I’d like to complete and then the main prize would be China Climb, China’s first 8c, located at White Mountain. Apparently Sharma felt it was soft 8c when he onsighted it (damn him!) but I’ve taken care of that by breaking the rest jug before the crux!

If I don’t run out of time, I’d also like to give American Gangster and Spicy Noodle a few tries. Both look like Grade A lines, so it’s time to get strong!

Me sending Sea of Tranquility, soft 8b+ at Moon Hill


Evaluating the sea of tufas that lead out the arch on Sea of Tranquility


Chinese fellow approaches the headwall on Sea of Tranquility


Mic on Lightening at Lei Pi Shan



A pleasant surprise at Moon Hill. Some of the tufas are detachable!


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1 Response to climbing in the ‘shuo

  1. Shannon says:

    Steve and Angie,
    What great pictures! It must be a little tricky to take those while you are climbing.
    Hope Angie is feeling better! Thinking about you both,


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